Chef-owner Ginevra Iverson of Restaurant Eloise in Sonoma County, California, serves her light, crisp, sugared doughnut holes with sweet-tart raspberry jam. She won't send any imperfect doughnut holes into the dining room; misshapen ones, she says, become snacks for the kitchen crew: "They get slathered with jam and devoured by whomever gets to them first."

Ingredients

STARTER

• 3/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon warm water
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

DOUGH

• 3/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
• 2 tablespoons milk, warmed
• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 large egg yolks
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 3 tablespoons sugar

JAM

• 1 pint red raspberries (12 ounces)
• 1 1/2 cups sugar, plus more for coating
• Vegetable oil, for frying

Directions

• MAKE THE STARTER: In a medium bowl, dissolve the yeast in the water. Mix in the flour. Cover with plastic and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 hour.
• MAKE THE DOUGH: In a standing mixer fitted with the dough hook, dissolve the yeast in the milk. Add the flour, salt, egg yolks, butter, sugar, and the starter and mix until the dough forms a ball. Scrape the dough into a bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 hour.
• MEANWHILE, MAKE THE JAM: In a saucepan, simmer the raspberries with the 1 1/2 cups of sugar over moderate heat until thickened, about 25 minutes. Scrape the jam into a bowl and let cool for 1 hour.
• Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough 1/2 inch thick. Stamp out 1-inch round doughnuts as close together as possible. Reroll the scraps and stamp out more doughnuts. Transfer the rounds to the baking sheet and cover with a damp cloth. Let stand for 15 minutes.
• In a saucepan, heat 1 inch of oil to 325 degrees. Fry the doughnuts until golden, 2 minutes. Drain, then roll the doughnuts in sugar. Serve hot, with the raspberry jam.